How to Read a Crochet Pattern (Beginner Guide)

The first time you open a crochet pattern, it looks like a different language.

Ch 3, sl st to join, sc in each st around, 2 sc in next — what does any of that mean? If you’ve ever read a pattern and felt more confused at the end than the beginning, you’re not alone. Most beginners feel this way. It’s not a skill problem. It’s a translation problem.

Once you know the abbreviations and understand how patterns are structured, reading them becomes second nature. This guide covers everything you need to know to get started with confidence.

Why Crochet Patterns Use Abbreviations

Crochet patterns are written in shorthand because writing out every instruction in full would make even a simple pattern ten pages long. “Single crochet” becomes “sc.” “Chain” becomes “ch.” “Slip stitch” becomes “sl st.”

Once you know what these abbreviations mean, you can read a pattern the same way you’d read a sentence — quickly, without stopping to decode anything.

Most patterns also include an abbreviations key at the top or bottom. If you’re ever unsure about an abbreviation in a specific pattern, always check there first before assuming you know what it means. Some designers use slightly different abbreviations from the standard.

The Essential Abbreviations

These are the ones you’ll see in almost every beginner pattern. Learn these and you can read most baby and beginner crochet patterns without any additional help.

For UK crocheters: UK and US terminology are different for the same stitches. What the US calls a “single crochet” is a “double crochet” in the UK. What the US calls a “double crochet” is a “treble” in the UK. Always check which terminology a pattern uses — most will state it clearly at the top. All of our patterns at Bloom Bonnet are written in US terminology.

How a Pattern Is Structured

Most crochet patterns follow the same basic format. Once you recognise it, you can skim any pattern and understand its structure before you even start crocheting.

Materials List

The first thing a pattern tells you is what you need: yarn weight and type, hook size, any additional materials (buttons, ribbon, stuffing, etc.), and often gauge. Read this carefully before starting. Substituting a different yarn or hook size without adjusting will change the size of your finished piece.

Gauge

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows should fit into a 10cm (4 inch) square with the recommended yarn and hook. For most baby items, gauge matters. A hat that’s crocheted too loosely will be too big. Baby shoes crocheted too tightly won’t fit over a foot.

How to do a gauge swatch: Chain enough stitches to make a square at least 12cm wide, work in the pattern stitch until it’s at least 12cm tall, then measure the middle section (edges can be misleading). Count how many stitches fit in 10cm and how many rows.

If your gauge is off — too many stitches means your tension is too tight, try a bigger hook. Too few means your tension is too loose, try a smaller hook.

For small items like baby shoes, even a slight gauge difference can change the finished size significantly. It’s worth the 20 minutes to swatch.

Size and Finished Measurements

Most baby patterns come in multiple sizes. The pattern will list what size each set of numbers applies to. A common format is: 3 months (6 months, 12 months) — throughout the pattern, you follow the number in the position that matches your chosen size.

For example: “ch 14 (16, 18)” means chain 14 for 3 months, 16 for 6 months, or 18 for 12 months. Pick your size at the start and mark it throughout the pattern before you begin — it makes a huge difference to your sanity.

The Pattern Instructions

This is the main body of the pattern. It’s written round by round (for pieces worked in the round) or row by row (for flat pieces). Each round or row ends with a stitch count in brackets — something like (12 sts) or (18 sc).

Always check your stitch count at the end of every round. This is the single most useful habit a beginner can develop. If your count is off by even one stitch, the error will compound through every subsequent round and the finished piece won’t look right.

Reading a Pattern Round — Step by Step

Here’s an example round from one of our baby shoe patterns:

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (18 sts)

Let’s break it down:

• Ch 1 — chain 1 (this is your turning chain, it doesn’t count as a stitch in single crochet patterns)
• sc in same st — single crochet into the same stitch where your hook currently is
• sc in next 3 sts — one single crochet each into the next 3 stitches
• 2 sc in next st — two single crochets into the same stitch (this is an increase — it adds one stitch)
• sc in next 6 sts — one single crochet each into the next 6 stitches
• 2 sc in next st — another increase
• sc in next 3 sts — single crochet in the next 3 stitches
• join with sl st to first sc — slip stitch into the first single crochet of this round to close it
• (18 sts) — you should have 18 stitches total at the end of this round

Read each section as a small instruction. Don’t try to read the whole line at once.

What “Repeat” Instructions Mean

Patterns often include instructions to repeat a section. This is written in a few different ways:

Asterisk notation: *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around (or a set number of times)

This means: do everything between the asterisks once, then do it again from the asterisk. “Rep from * around” means keep repeating until you reach the end of the round.

Bracket notation: [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] x 4

This means: do everything inside the brackets 4 times in total.

Parentheses notation: (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times

Same idea — do the contents of the parentheses 3 times.

All three mean the same thing. Different designers use different styles. Once you see it a few times, it clicks.

Common Beginner Mistakes When Reading Patterns

Missing the stitch count check. You finish a round, it looks right, you keep going. Then five rounds later something is clearly wrong. Always count. Every round.

Confusing UK and US terminology. If a pattern calls for a “double crochet” and you look it up and it seems taller than what you expect, check whether it’s a UK pattern. A UK dc = US sc. A UK tr = US dc. Very easy to accidentally work the wrong stitch.

Not marking your size. If you’re making the 6-month size and the pattern says “ch 14 (16, 18),” it takes half a second to circle the 16s throughout the pattern before you start. Not doing this leads to constantly re-reading and second-guessing yourself mid-row.

Forgetting which direction you’re working. Flat pieces are worked in rows — you turn the work at the end of each row. Pieces worked in the round are continuous — you don’t turn unless the pattern specifically tells you to.

Not using stitch markers. For pieces worked in rounds, place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round so you always know where your round starts and ends. It costs nothing and prevents a huge amount of confusion.

A Note on Pattern Sizing for Babies

Baby sizing varies a lot between designers. A “newborn” in one pattern might fit a different age range in another. Always check the finished measurements, not just the size label.

For shoes and booties specifically, we find that most babies fit the 3-month size until they’re 2–3 months old, the 6-month size from around 3–6 months, and the 12-month size from around 6–9 months. Feet vary a lot though — measuring the baby’s foot against the pattern’s finished sole length is always more reliable than going by age.

Start With a Simple Pattern

The best way to get comfortable reading crochet patterns is to actually work one from start to finish, checking your stitch count at every round. Our beginner patterns are a good place to start:

• Free Crochet Summer Baby Hat Pattern — worked in the round, simple increases, clear stitch counts
• Free Crochet Little Baby Booties Pattern — flat construction, great for practising row-by-row reading
• Free Crochet Chevron Baby Blanket Pattern — worked in rows with a repeating stitch pattern, good for understanding repeat notation

All of our patterns include stitch counts at the end of every round or row, a full abbreviations key, and are written in US terminology.

Before you start, make sure you have the right yarn — check our best yarn for crochet baby items guide if you’re not sure what to buy.